Naturtuche Textile Dictionary: From Satin Weave to Twine

Welcome to our textile dictionary. Here we explain the most important terms related to natural fibers, historical fabrics, and traditional manufacturing techniques.

A – C

Satin weave (Atlasbindung)

Alongside plain and twill weave, one of the three basic types of weaves. It is characterized by a smooth, often glossy top side and a matte bottom side. Fabrics with a satin weave drape very softly (e.g., satin).

Cotton (Baumwolle)

A natural plant fiber extracted from the seed hairs of the cotton plant. It is very absorbent, skin-friendly, and durable. In historical reenactment (e.g., European Middle Ages), it is less common than linen or wool, but was known early on in the Orient.

Brocade (Brokat)

A heavy, firm, and patterned fabric, often woven with gold or silver threads. It was traditionally used for festive and magnificent historical garments.

D – F

Damask (Damast)

A fabric in which warp and weft threads alternate in such a way that woven, often large-scale patterns are created, which shimmer depending on the light.

Herringbone (Fischgrat / Fischgrät)

A classic weave pattern created by a special variant of the twill weave. The direction of the ridge is changed at regular intervals, creating the typical zigzag pattern reminiscent of fish bones.

Classic herringbone pattern made of wool

Flax (Flachs)

The plant from whose stems the linen fiber is extracted. The term is often used synonymously for the raw, unspun material.

G – K

Weight (g/m² or g/rm)

Indicates how heavy and thus usually how thick a fabric is. Light summer fabrics weigh around 100-150 g/m², heavy wool coat fabrics often over 400 g/m².

Hemp (Hanf)

One of the oldest crops. The fibers extracted from the stem are extremely tear-resistant, dirt-repellent, and moisture-regulating. Hemp fabrics look similar to linen but are often even more robust.

Warp / Warp thread (Kette / Kettfaden)

The threads that are stretched longitudinally in the loom during weaving. They must be particularly tear-resistant as they are under high tension.

Twill weave (Köperbindung)

One of the three basic weave types, recognizable by the diagonal “ridge” (like denim). Twill fabrics are softer, fuller, and often more durable than plain weave fabrics.

The diagonal ridge of the twill weave

L – O

Linen (Leinen)

A natural fiber extracted from the stems of the flax plant. Linen is smooth, traps little air (hence cooling), is extremely tear-resistant, and does not lint. For centuries, it was the standard fabric for undergarments and shirts.

The typical structure of linen fabric

Plain weave / Tabby weave (Leinwandbindung / Tuchbindung)

The oldest and simplest type of weave. Each weft thread alternately passes over and under a warp thread. The top and bottom (right and wrong side) look exactly the same. The fabric is very firm and abrasion-resistant.

Loden

A durable wool fabric. Originally a coarse, unfulled wool fabric, today mostly used as a synonym for tightly woven and slightly fulled woolen yarn fabrics that are wind- and water-repellent.

P – S

Weft / Weft thread (Schuss / Schussfaden)

The thread that is “shot” (woven) crosswise to the warp threads from one side to the other during weaving.

Silk (Seide)

The only continuous textile fiber occurring in nature. It is extracted from the cocoons of the silkworm (a caterpillar species). Silk insulates well against cold and heat, has a natural shine, and was historically an absolute luxury good.

Carded yarn / Woolen yarn (Streichgarn)

A yarn spun from shorter wool fibers. The fibers do not lie exactly parallel, making the yarn more voluminous, softer, and more air-trapping. Ideal for warming fabrics.

T – Z

Cloth / Broadcloth (Tuch)

Historically the term for a dense sheep’s wool fabric that is fulled (matted) and napped after weaving. Today often used as a general term for fabric.

Boiled wool / Fulled wool (Walkloden)

A wool fabric that is kneaded (“fulled” or boiled) in warm water and under pressure after weaving. This causes the wool fibers to mat together. The fabric shrinks, becomes extremely dense, windproof, water-repellent, and no longer frays at the cut edges. An ideal fabric for warm historical outerwear and coats.

Dense, matted boiled wool

Wool (Wolle)

Animal natural fiber, usually from sheep (virgin wool). Wool can absorb up to a third of its own weight in moisture without feeling wet. It is highly heat-insulating, dirt-repellent, and crease-resistant.

Twine / Ply yarn (Zwirn)

Created when two or more finished yarns are twisted together. Twine is significantly more tear-resistant and uniform than a single yarn.